A Pinay in Europe

I just came back from a ten-day business cum photowalking adventure in the sunny climes of the south of France but instead of unpacking my bag, I have to top it off with yet  more clothing - the thermal variety in fact - as day after tomorrow, I am heading to the much colder north - Amsterdam, Copenhagen and Malmo.

Well,  call it a holiday but I’m actually playing tourist guide to my sister and her family for their one week Easter vacation.  Indeed,  far too short especially if they are flying seven hours and aiming at three cities - but then, if you are a Europhile, I suppose it gets more exciting as you see one city after another, right?  Last summer, they covered 14 cities in 17 days..and they love it so much they are back once more!

I’m quite excited, of course, considering that this will be my first time to step foot in Scandinavia. I’ve been raring to see how life in that part of the Continent differs from the mainland. Oh well, I shall talk about my findings when I return, complete with hordes of photographs for your enjoyment!

Meanwhile, let me share with you how I managed to squeeze a lot of places in my ten days of errand-purposed trip to the French Riviera.

Blooms!  that is the great thing about Spring!  After the long grey winters, suddenly you find yourself surrounded by flowers of bright yellows and all colours you can imagine!  These are the Forsythia shrubs. After a long dormant winter, its the flowers (yellow) that will come out first, followed by the leaves.

The Ventimiglia station in Italy.  This is where I wait for the Trenitalia train to take me home to the mountains.

Days before Palm Sunday, you see palm fronds on sale already in big towns such as Menton.

Menton, being the citrus capital of France, has most of its roads and alleys lined up with trees bearing these agrumes.  Luckily, I was there while the trees were exploding with their golden coloured fruits.  They hold their lemon festival every February.

This is where you buy potted lemon trees for decorating your terrace.

It’s raining lemons in Springtime, you see them used even as decorations!

This is the Roya river that flows through the entire length of the Roya valley  - or Val Roia of the Italian section - out into the Mediterranean sea.

This is a church in Cap d’Ail where the saints’ statues are already covered for the incoming Holy Week celebration.

Went coastal walking in Cap d’Ail and got mesmerized by the staggering scenery!

Kilometers-long walk that took me to Monaco…

Show me flowers and my heart will sing for you!

How does the Cote d’Azur look like in Springtime?

- it’s the beginning of water sports activities!

- it’s the coming out of this cotton-like flowers..

- it’s the season of prickly pears

- when the sunbathing season begins

- and sun worshippers are on their best form

- when beach workers, sunbathers and sportifs are happy doing their thing side by side

- when beaches become alive again

Ooopps, I have to squeeze here a short photo-tale of my favorite Spring plant

- the Pride of Madeira

It can grow tall and wide like a tree!

The cone-shaped clusters can reach a length of 20 inches!

The flowers are well-loved by bees and the honey these bees produced are well-prized for their flavour!

These are the tulips by the Casino garden

And this is the Casino de Montecarlo

Sometimes I feel I am not worthy to step in Monaco grounds..;but I had to,  in the name of photography!

The village of fontan - using the Pop Art mode of my Point and Shoot

The Presidential election is happening next month so poster boards are out again on the streets.

A solitary house in the Roya Valley as viewed from the top (taken while walking to the hilltop village of Saorge)

The first view of Saorge

An olive tree is like a sculpture of God, so beautiful and free flowing..

Early Spring is also the season of mimosas!

And this is the mimosa tree in full bloom - my reason for visiting Saorge.  These flowers last for only two weeks!

The Baroque interior of a church in Saorge

Two churches of the village.  There are five more in this tiny place of 430 inhabitants

Even the rosemary plant is in bloom!  You should try roasting chicken with this herb.  It’s so tasty!

A tiny terrace in Saorge

Menton, the pearl of France

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Check it out at - A daily dose of Paris
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Cap d’Ail was not really in my itinerary of today (although it’s one experience that I’d insist on doing again!)

All I wanted was to buy a timbre fiscal (goverment stamp) from the Treasurer’s Office in Menton, for affixing on a document that needs to be notarized by the Mairie (Town Hall).  The truth is, I could also buy it from a Tabac (shop that sells cigarettes, candies and sometimes lotto tickets) but, foolish as I am, I still chose to procure it from a notoriously-red-tape-ridden fonction publique (government office), voila!  the distress I went through in the course of getting it.

But I did discover something in the process.  A secret gem - the millionaires’ hideaway - Cap d’Ail!

Here’s my story :

Distress #1

12:04 pm.  After an hour of bus journey from home to Menton, I arrived at the doorstep of the Treasurer’s Office four minutes after closing time!  Opening time again: 1:30pm.

Something I vehemently dislike doing is to waste time just waiting for an office to open.  I had to make a decision quickly.  Why not go to Monaco?  It’s more pleasant to hang around in the Casino garden where I could pass the time enjoying and photographing their display of Spring flowers around the fountain!  So off I caught the bus!

While in the bus, I did some time analysis.  The journey back and forth to Monaco is one hour, so that means I have only 2.5 hours to spare if I wanted to catch the Treasurer’s Office few minutes before they close at 4pm.  I could get off on French territory and just buy the timbre fiscal at the Hotel de Ville (City Hall) in Cap d’Ail.  It is just 3 bus stops away after Monaco.  This way, I could easily and leisurely walk my way back to the Principality for the flower stopover.

Distress #2

1:00pm.  I arrived at the Hotel de Ville..but it’s closed!  Opening time again: 1:30pm.

Hotel de Ville in Cap d’Ail with its eye-catching mural

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Mariadams to the man in suit waiting by the Hotel de Ville:  Excuse me, monsieur.  Do you think they sell timbres fiscaux here?

Man in black:  No, they don’t.  But you can buy them at the Tabac up the road.

Distress#2

1:30pm.  After walking long and hard - it’s a hilly climb, mind you - I finally found the Tabac.  It’s closed.  The notice on the door says, “Opening time:  3:30pm”

That’s it!  Enough looking for stamps! There is a spectacular view out there and it’s about time I start exploring!

I followed a footpath that gives sumptuous views of the sea with rich vegetation of Mediterranean pines, flowering vines,  luscious greeneries…..

…millionaires’ villas perched high up on the rocks

and more opulent villas with classical gardens and stairways jutting down to their private beach

It’s like a painting dabbed with turquoises, terracottas and palm trees

but whatever happened to the owner of this glorious villa?

Along the snaking footpath, swimming pools appear here and there.  This one, peeking out between a grilled fencing

sometimes the footpath would turn into a Y and I would follow one that suddenly turns into railroad-sleeper-steps leading up to the main road

and in some corner, an oasis of bench, flowers and paradisiac setting awaits those who are desperate to rest their hearts after going through an exhaustive, highly emotional mix of  bewildered, dumbfounded and stupefified “ooohhhhs” and  “aaahhhhhs”.  Seeing wealth of other people is mindblowing, you see!

Every now and then, a couple of walkers would be trailing behind, in their flimsiest clothing as the Spring sun is already a burner!

Sights of rooftops surrounded by balusters, probably trying to make it look like a terrace but highly impossible to cook barbecue in this slanting set-up

Belle Epoque villas where the residents run businesses in Monaco or highly-likely, second homes to international celebrities

Here you can go on and on snapping for Home and Garden ideas

and gate-painting styles

Oh, did I mention “painting” already?  We can add bougainvilleas in the canvass, too!

I took this photo because the glass roof in the centre fascinates me….it could be the roof of a conservatory…or even of an indoor pool..who knows?  Dreaming is free…

A garden by the sea…what a lucky owner!

They could well be the same millionaires whose hobby is to go fishing.  This is the door to their clubhouse.

and this spot is free for all…tables and chairs for picnickers!

and this one is for those who want to chat or relax over a glass of bank-breaking cocktails or wine

and for those who just want to cut off, read a book or sunbathe with their loyal canine friend, Skip, it’s choose-your-own-cove and it’s free!

Fish costs a fortune in this region, despite the bountiful sea and the rich and famous residents giving nary a care, but in any case, knowing how to fish and catching one is a very fulfilling hobby…moreso if it could provide you free dinner everyday!

Nearly finished with my sightseeing, a passer-by whom I asked directions on how to get to the main road, told me to wend through this tunnel (the train station above it).  A bit eery for solo walkers like myself but my photographic passion was stronger than my fear, hence, this photo.

Getting out of the tunnel, I was welcomed by this display of yet more bougainvilleas, pine trees and succulents

Voila!  in case you want to follow my footsteps, this is the train station  in Cap d’Ail

After the train station, I just walked and walked in a seemingly circular manner - a maze of streets and no-entry signs.  But that’s the beauty of being a photographer.  All the worries of getting lost is beyond me.  All I could think of that moment was my camera and my subject, such as this apartment building of mixed Rennaissance and Belle Epoque style.

I finally found the road and eventually hailed a bus going back to Menton.  I still had 45 minutes left before the Treasurer’s Office closes for the day.

Distress #3

3:50pm.  At the cashier’s counter.

mariadams:  I’d like to buy a timbre fiscal, please.  Do you accept carte bancaire (credit card)?

Cashier:  Non.  Only cash. 

So yours truly had to do a marathon run towards the nearest ATM, a good 500-meters away.   She found one, ran back and 2 minutes before they lock the door, she finally got what she wanted! Hurray!

 How to get to Cap d’Ail

-          By train:  Cap d’Ail train station is about 3 kms west of Monaco and 10 kms east of Nice.  There are regular coastal trains from either point:

-          By Bus: Ligne d’Azur line 100 provides services from Nice and Monaco approximately every 15 minutes.  Cost is only €1 for a single journey regardless of the distance.

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Had to go down to the South of France today and there are only two TGV trips - one at 6:45am and the next at mid-day.  Since I still need to take another train connection from Nice station to our village , I had no choice but to wake up at 4am to beat the earlier journey.

So while at Gare de Lyon waiting for the train call, I was observing this coffee kiosk which never stopped from getting queued up.  That’s my dream business, a food or drink kiosk in a train station…I wonder how much they are paying for rent…

Nice at last - after 5 hours sitting on the iDTGV…but I was rewarded, on my arrival, of  sunny blue skies, Provençal landscape and the warm, soft air around me!

All the signs of the tourist season are showing.  Can’t blame them.  While I left Paris vacillating between 11-13degC…here it’s going as high as 21!

Welcome to the Cote d’Azur!

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Before moving to our present village home just off the Italian border, we used to live in Provence, the land of vineyards, olive orchards and lavanders and where the sea is not so far away in fact the small fishing village made famous by Brigitte Bardot - St Tropez - is just 50 km from our town.   The name of that town is Draguignan and living there for  eight years got me extremely familiar with its geography like the back of my hands, or so I thought.  

Surprisingly today, I discovered the real Draguignan like I’ve never seen it before.  We were there today for one of H’s regular errands and while he attended to his rendezvous, I went photo-scouting in the old town. 

Standing on a rock is the Clock Tower (Tour de l’Horloge) that has withstood more than 4 centuries of existence.

A 16th century Roman gate.  Nearby is the site of an ancient pharmacy where a young son of the town, Hippolyte Mège-Mouriès, worked as trainee and eventually in the 1860s invented our present-day breakfast fare, the margarine. 

Rue de l’Observance, from the 15th century, was the road where the aristocracy and men of law resided.  This is the part of Draguignan that really amazed me particularly  the facades of the houses and the wooden doors dating back to the medieval age

The old signage of rue de l’Observance

If only these doors can speak….how beautiful they sculpt doors in those days

A 17th century door facade

I really love the design of ancient floor tiles! 

A little varnish and polish, this door would come out alive again!

You will often find holes such as this one (covered in green iron grill) in facades, they were used to ventilate the basements….

A Gothic window frame

Front shops like this one are now a thing of the past, but thanks to the owner of this property for not erasing history

Free music concerts such as this, almost all year round, is one reason why France is the best place to live in the world!

This historic telephone building now houses the Post Office

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Every Christmas season, it’s a tradition in our village to put up  Christmas nativity scenes in public places and they are particularly more interesting to look out at night when they are lit up so armed with my tripod and wrapped up from head to foot to protect myself from the winter cold, I, with H in tow, went scouting for cribs to photograph.

Still searching for more cribs, I thought these village steps make a good night scene.    Doesn’t it look mysterious at night?

… and this series of windows across the road with some Christmas lights a-twinkling

Crib-scouting over, time to go back home.  Really freezing cold tonight!

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We stopped by the coastal town of Menton today and how unceasingly we raved about how lucky we are for having the chance to live in this part of the world!  Truly, the turquoise blue mediterranean sea could lift one’s spirit through the roof! 

The Cote d’Azur could be one of the most expensive places on earth but look what you get in exchange of your hard-earned cash  (or “old money” if you inherited it from your wealthy parents )- Sun, Sea, Sand and may I add, Blue!

This 17th century Bastion used to be a military fort for protecting the town against marine invasion, particularly from Genova (Italy).  It was converted into an exhibition place for Jean Cocteau’s work, including drawings, paintings and tapestries.

Just a few sunbathers today

Last week’s storm brought big waves and along with it, rocks…. so volleyball is suspended in the meantime.

The marina of Menton

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 Cote d’Azur, France

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I took the 1-euro, 50-minute bus to Menton today just to have a fix of the azure waters of the mer Méditerranée and as ever, it never fails to bewilder me.  No wonder it is the grand favorite of most holiday makers coming from all over France - and Europe. 

On our way down from Lyon towards the South last Sunday, we saw the autoroute bursting with caravans, campervans, cars with bikes and surfboards on the roof, some even towing boats and motorcyles, driving northwards, back to their homes, back to their work and in over a week’s time, back to school for the children. 

I mean, for the entire six hours of driving, the traffic on the other side of the motorway was moving turtle speed, vehicles inching their way almost bumper-to-bumper, and I wondered that it might be geologically possible that the southern part of France’s land surface might be tilting dangerously downward towards those azure waters, straining from the weight of those hundreds of thousands of humanity including that of their motor vehicles who all came together to have a splash of the French Riviera!

Anyway, today in Menton, there are still tourists left behind, catching the last days of Summer.  A good photo op again for yours truly.  How I enjoy this region where I live!  It’s like being on a holiday mood forever!

A big <Wow> to that bronze effect! 

Lucky lady… to wake up every morning to that staggering scenery!

Even if it’s tempered with age, the elements and grafitti, this scene is still a sight to behold!

This is not the Caribbean, we’re still talking about the Cote d’Azur..

Living by the sea creates a very relaxed lifestyle.  Love that dress!

Ooppsss…the beauty of inflatables is, if you are too lazy to deflate it, you can just bang them into the boot!

Even when most of the children are gone, inflatables are still good business….for use next summer perhaps!

There seems to be a competition for the most flowered beach restaurant facade!

and for having the sexiest and the most attractive waitresses!

From the dining table straight to the waters!

They have to attract attention, and business…you see!

Drying those wet beach towels just takes minutes…in sun-drenched Menton!

Huh, don’t they have other laundry to dry except towels…

and one more towel…I like the colour though!

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Today, Saturday, 14th of May, is the day of free concerts all over France and how doubly  lucky we are to watch a mandalin concert, in La Brigue, an instrument and village, respectively, close to our hearts!

The performers are students of the Prince Rainier III Academy of Music in Monaco.

The venue is the Collegiale Saint Martin, a richly decorated church of 17-18th century Baroque style

The students are very young, probably ranging from age 8 to 20 and played movie soundtracks such as that of the Titanic, Mission Impossible, Indiana Jones, etc

I am particularly impressed by the vioncello player

This painting of the martyrdom of St Elmo caught my attention.  St Elmo is the patron saint of sailors and and lived in 300 BC. 

After the concert and after some sightseeing of the interior of the church, we went out for a quick walk.  The slight drizzle and the thick clouds over the mountains made the landscape truly magical…

The village is bounded by the mountains of the Higher Alps

The benches are made of grey stone which is indigenous of the region

The garden of the Michelin-star hotel-restaurant

A spectacular scenery!

The village is marked by sculpted lintels on doorways

I don’t know which one of these lintels is the oldest (year 1234)

You may also want to see May 2011 Daily Photos

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