All posts by mariadam

"Pinay" is slang for a woman.born in the Philippines. I have been living in France for the last 12 years and taking photos is my passion. My husband and I move a lot, travelling and sometimes living from one European city to another. We live in Paris at the moment. I have been to so many cities but the City of Romance is still my favorite. I love to capture the everyday life of Europe particularly Paris and through this blog I would like to share my visual experiences with you. Enjoy and feel free to ask questions about the pictures.

The Megalithic tomb complex of Loughcrew

My topic for today being All Saints Day, is not about a monumental cemetery or some legendary tombs. It is about the ancient burial site which we saw by pure coincidence during our first week in Ireland.

Located just outside the town of Oldcastle in County Meath, 83 kms northwest of Dublin, the Megalithic Complex of Loughcrew comprised of a cluster of tombs spread over three hils, one of them is privately owned so cannot be accessed easily, the other one features a few, but the third one where we went is where most of the burial grounds (called cairns) are concentrated. It is on this hill – colloquially called Hill of the Witch – where you can find the finest example of a burial place of the elite of the Neolithic period which dates back 3200BC – making it 500 years older than the Pyramids of Giza and 1,000 years older than the Stonehenge of England.

What makes this burial site highly impressive is the placement. Put together with absolute precision by the tribes of those days using only the most primitive tools, managed to move uphill, large blocks of stones, carved them on site, then assembled into chambers, in a way where the rising sun at the Spring and Autumnal equinoxes shines through the passageways illuminating the elaborate engravings on the stones inside. They say that they were designed to tell time, or the coming of the new season where they can base their hunting or food gathering.

Like the many megalithic structures scattered in Ireland, these tombs in Loughcrew have been here for over 5,000 years, but were discovered only by accident, in the 19th century, by Eugene Conwell while picnicking in one of those hills with his wife. He named each mound or cairn with the letters of the alphabet exactly the same labels being used today.

When we were there late August staying in a nearby campsite, we saw tourist buses parked each day at the camp grounds. They came to the area specifically to visit the burial complex, probably one of the stopovers of their Dublin-and-beyond day tours. The site is just a ten-minute climb up hill and when we got there, we couldn’t believe what we saw. This is definitely one of the most incredible places I, personally, have ever seen, after the Pyramids of Egypt, but that was in the early 1990s and I was too young to appreciate history then.

Anyway, we queued up to enter the best-kept tomb of them all, the Cairn T passage tomb, where a guide graciously explained the important bits – and the entrance is free, mind you. We feel so lucky to have seen this amazing feat of Neolithic engineering and the physical evidence of the rituals of those tribes 3200BC and I’d like to share them with you!

(Some of the captions are excerpts from the signboard on site)

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Sited on the highest hilltops in County Meath, these tombs were built by Neolithic (new Stone Age) societies, Ireland’s first farmers. (from signboard on site)

20170817_130842cThe term passage tomb derives from the passage which leads from the entrance to the burial chamber.  (from signboard on site)

20170817_131727BAlthough called tombs, these monuments are unlikely to have been built primarily for burial and must also have acted as focal point for a group or tribe – perhaps as territorial markers.  (from signboard on site)

20170817_130856bThe abstract, symbolic carvings on many of the stones and the orientation of some of the tombs to the sun or to other heavenly bodies reinforces the ritual nature of the monuments. (from signboard on site)

20170817_130535bTraces of about 25 tombs survive at Loughcrew.  (from signboard on site)

IMG_2074BOn the summit of Carnbane East, the main tomb, Cairn T,  (the big mound in the background) is a classic example with a cross-shaped chamber covered by a mound of stones, 35 meter in diameter. (from signboard on site)

20170817_131312bOn the Equinox days, March 21st and September 21st,  sunlight enters the tomb at dawn and illuminates a series of radial line patterns (like the stone on the left ) which are carved on various stones inside the tomb. (from signboard on site)

This burial chamber is labeled as Cairn T, it has the Irish cruciform layout with a large central chamber and side chambers.

20170817_131343bThe inner chamber where more stone art can be seen..

The passage of Cairn T is constructed in a such a way that the sun’s rays form a narrow shaft of light that illuminates the stone carvings.

 

20170817_131222bStone art depicting the sun and its movements

 

IMG_2092BAnother passage tomb (in the center, but smaller) surrounded by  stones that form the kerb.

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The view from the tombs where our campsite can be seen at the far right, bottom

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Tourists walking down after visiting the site.

Photocrawling through Dublin’s Temple Bar

No visit to Dublin is complete without wandering through the colourful and cobbled streets of Temple Bar. Not only famous for its pubs and nightlife, it’s also the heart of the Capital’s Cultural Quarter – concert halls, galleries, cinemas, food and craft markets, the oldest theatre, the site where Handel first performed the Messiah… I did a quick walk around, and if I had more time, I could have also waited till dark for the more vibrant night scene. Anyway, feast your eyes on these images.

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20171025_162237bThe guitar sculpture, top right, is a copy of Rory Gallagher’s famous Fender Stratocaster. He used to play in the Temple Bar before becoming famous.

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20171025_145203bGeorge Frideric Handel’s Messiah was originally an Easter offering. It bursts onto the stage of Musick Hall in Dublin on April 13, 1742. The audience swelled to a record 700, as ladies had heeded pleas by management to wear dresses “without Hoops” in order to make “Room for more company.” (Smithsonian.com)

This is Fishamble Street where the Musick Hall once stood.

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20171025_161533b(Background) Smock Alley Theatre, opened in 1662, is one of the oldest theatres in Europe

(Foreground) Viking boat sculpture commemorating Dublin’s Viking heritage.

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Feeling like a student again at Trinity College, Dublin

20171025_115104bMain Entrance of Trinity Coillege seen from the road

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20171025_121317bThe Campanile or Bell Tower, built in 1853, is an iconic landmark but there is a superstition attached to it. If the bell tolls as you’re walking through, you will fail all of your exams, hence, no student even dare does it, bell tolling or not.

20171025_121715bBuilt in 1700, this is the oldest building in the College, now used as Students’ Accommodation.

20171025_132805bCalled the Long Room (at nearly 65meters in length) is the main chamber of the Old Library. Built in the early 18thC, it is one of the most impressive libraries in the world. It houses 200,000 of the oldest books of the library, among them, the Book of Kells.

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IMG_4618bMarble busts of great philosophers and writers of the Western World (all men) line the Long Room.

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20171025_135425bThe Reading Room, open 24 hrs a day, the best place to study your lessons in complete peace and quiet.

20171025_141105bThe University Restaurant looking like a Gallery and Harry Potter’s Dining Hall.
20171025_140520bI wasn’t hungry but ordered a simple bowl of soup just to get that magical “a la Harry Potter” dining experience.

20171025_140626b… and for the price of 2.50euros, I get to enjoy my soup in this glorious Hall.

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They don’t allow photography in the Exhibition, a way of compelling visitors to buy their Book of Kells postcards and books, but I am more clever than that, I think! If photographing the advertising posters is not good enough, I could always download some photos from the internet.

Ancient Monastic site of Kells

We have this great passion for all things ancient and being in Ireland fills us just that.
This country is especially favoured with a wealth of antiquities spanning 5000 years. What it lacks in sunshine – as it rains here 365 days a year – it fills you up with remarkable archaeological landscape such as megalithic tombs, stone structures used for Pagan worship, ruins of castles, of monasteries containing fine examples of early Christian architecture, the Celtic Cross being one of them.

They are everywhere, one need not travel far to find them. On our first weekend in Ireland, we stayed in a campsite where a 10-minute climb uphill took us to a network of 3,200 year old megalithic tombs. In our town alone (pop. 1,100), if the glorious remains of a 14thC Jacobean church is not old enough, we only need to drive 7kms away to soak up the ruins of a 6thC Abbey. .

Every weekend is something we always look forward to as it is a time especially dedicated to making new discoveries. So last Saturday, we visited the historic town of Kells, one of the most important monastic sites in Ireland. We were spellbound, gripped with awe as we took in the sight. This is truly worth sharing…

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The monastery of Kells, founded in the 9thC, is one of Ireland’s greatest monastic settlements. Many items that are integral pieces of Irish history were created here, from the high (Celtic) crosses and Round Tower to the completion of the famous Book of Kells. This book is a manuscript of the 4 Gospels, beautifully illustrated by the monks of Kells Abbey in the 9thC.

All that remains now are the roofless tower, three high crosses and a base for the 4th high cross, and few artifacts. It is in these grounds that St Columba’s Church of Ireland Parish church and its cemetery now stand. The Book of Kells, meanwhile, is on display at the Trinity College, Dublin and that is another trip to be made.

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The Round Tower.
Monasteries were surrounded by a circular boundary wall which acted as a frontier between the holy world within and the secular world outside. They often contained a church, graveyard, high crosses, monk`s cells and later on, from the late 10th century, the addition of round towers to store surplus goods, act as a refuge and a belltower.

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These medieval features decorate the bell tower which is all that remains of a medieval church, now replaced by St Columba’s church.

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One of the four high crosses on this site, this was damaged during the invasion of Oliver Cromwell’s army.
The carvings depict scenes from the Bible such as The Marriage feast of Cana, Christ entering Jerusalem and Christ’s baptism by St. John

20171007_121422bAll that remains of this high cross is the base.

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Another high cross, the Cross of St. Patrick & St. Columba. I am guessing that this could be the Holy Trinity depicting God, the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit.

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The unfinished cross. Carvings were done onsite and the blank square panels show that the work was left unfinished.

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Adam and Eve, probably after eating the apple as they both look embarassed of themselves here.

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The crucifixion

IMG_3970bSt John’s Cemetery, 12thC
Here is a headstone engraved with an Early Christian Cross.

Original Celtic Crosses were carved on slabs of stone. It is thought to mark the transition from flat gravestones to the upright Celtic crosses.

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St John’s cemetery, 12thC
A medieval effigy depicting the deceased in a state of “eternal repose”. The first medieval effigies emerged as low relief in the 12th century, gradually becoming full high relief in the 14thC, also horizontal, and later on, sculpted upright.

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St John’s cemetery 
19thC headstone engraved with Early Christian cross.
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St John’s cemetery, 12thC.
The use of sandstone slabs to mark graves were prevalent. I bet the wealthy ones hired carvers to create more decorative headstones.