A Pinay in Europe

Driving through the Haute-Savoie

Did you know that the Haute Savoie or “Upper Savoy” did not use to be a part of France? It was in 1858 when the House of Savoy (Kingdom of Italy) relinquished it to France in exchange for Emperor Napoleon III’s aid to Italy in its war against Austria.

Lucky for France because this region is world famous for its ski resorts (Chamonix is one), its mineral waters (Evian) and its tallest mountains (Mont Blanc at 4,807 meters). It is bordered by Switzerland to the north and Italy to the east.

I adore the Haute Savoie because it is like little Switzerland with its lakes, snow-capped mountains and picturesque towns. We have been to Annecy 5 years ago and it left me bewildered by its medieval beauty. Truly one of the most stunning French towns I’ve ever seen. I also became an instant and now a devoted fan of its Tomme de Savoie cheese, perfect as pizza topping despite the strong smell.

So when we were in Geneva early October, we were determined to take a sidetrip to the Haute Savoie, particularly Evian, as it is only an hour drive from the former.

The crescent shaped Lake Lehman (”Lake Geneva” in English) is bordered by France and Switzerland.

From Geneva, we drove through Douvaine, Messery, Thonon les Bains and Evian les Bains.

DOUVAINE

The colours of autumn are everywhere to be seen in Douvaine.

A UFO look-alike building, in technicolour!

The public carpark

Lovely colours!

The Town Hall

A cycling competition was on.

MESSERY

After driving through corn and dried sunflower fields we took the turn to Messery to look for something to eat. It was getting cold, must be the reason why there is not a single soul around.

The Town Hall. We parked there to eat our pizza takeaway in the car.

The pizza shop is on the right (not seen). We thought it was closed because all lights were out, but the door was ajar. As soon as we got in, the automatic doorbell sounded and the lady owner started turning on the lights. I bet electricity is expensive here.

We thought we could stay in a campsite that night but of course, it was Sunday and

Nobody was in. Looking at the notices, it actually said the camping season closed end of September. Hurray! We missed it by 3 days! (Date of visit: 3 October 2009)

Even if the campsite was closed, the gate was open so we had the chance of exploring the caravans inside. Cool! they have incorporated the caravans into the chalets or vice-versa.

A bed and breakfast place

THONON LES BAINS

We arrived in Thonon in the dark. Had a quick walk of the town square where the only people there is a couple of young kids petting each other next to the fountai.

Saw this poster in the town square. This was Thonon in the Belle Epoque days. I didn’t see a similarity of this poster to what the town looks like now though. It’s just now a town of pizza take aways, perfumerie shops, modern boutiques and lots of parking land.

This is the funicular down the port, but it was closed. It will open again next spring to summer.

The tourists are gone. It’s just now falling leaves and empty cafes that animate the Old Quarter in the Port.

At 8 in the morning, while the town is still sleeping, the amateur sailors and children on sailing course are busy preparing their boats for a day out on the lake.

Typical of the Haute Savoie is the chalet houses similar to Switzerland. Cold or alpine regions tend to use wooden shelters as it is warmer to the eye. Wood is an excellent insulation, too.

Mechanized transporting of household goods. Convenient for multi-level houses

The last trace of the Belle Epoque years is gone. As more and more people are choosing to spend their holidays in the cheap, the luxurious hotels of old are more expensive to maintain than run. Seen here are bent metallic bars that used to support a terrace.

One of the many lavoirs (ancient washing areas) of Thonon. This one is a bit modernized.

Just like in other parts of France, some streets are named after war heroes

Leaving Thonon and driving towards Evian, we noticed this big cross on the main road. Shrines and cross sculptures dot the country, a trace of a religious past.

EVIAN LES BAINS