A Pinay in Europe

This is the first time the British Ambassador’s Residence opened its doors to the public in connection with the European Patrimony Days. The queue was not long but there were already a lot of visitors inside, and still a big number keeps on arriving. I was not hopeful about taking even a single photo, aware that the British Government is so strict about people taking photos of public places by reason of security. So when they announced that photography is allowed, I couldn’t believe it!

Hotel de Charost, so-named because it was built by the duc of Charost (1722-25).

The Entrance Hall with the marble statue of Pauline Borghese, Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister who bought the house after it became abandoned during the French Revolution.

Salon Pauline

The Empire bed of Pauline.  She became an Imperial Princess when the First Empire of Napoleon was proclaimed.

The Throne Room which is now used for investiture ceremonies.

The Ballroom

The State Dining Room.  When Queen Elizabeth visited the Embassy in 2004, the official dinner took place here.

The English-style Herb Garden

The garden where the Queen planted a cherry tree and a ginkgo biloba, and the Queen Mother a weeping mulberry, a double cherry and a beech.

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Once known as the most famous restaurant in the world..
The grand names in politics, cinema, business…make it a point to include it in their Paris itinerary…
It’s been made into a play in 1899, the setting for films, books, songs…
But what really made Maxim famous was its ladies - the courtesans of the Belle Epoch - the reasons why Kings, Princes, Dukes and the cremes of international elite frequented this restaurant.

Maxim’s is on the list of the the European Patrimony Days Guide and I thought this is my chance to see the most famous restaurant in the world with its Art Nouveau interiors and a museum showing a 1900 courtesan apartment, thanks to Pierre Cardin who re-created it with his personal collection of 550 Belle Epoch pieces from around the world.

The facade at 3, rue Royale, 8th arrondissement

Ground Floor - The Parlour

Ground Floor - The Restaurant

First Floor

First Floor - The Bar

The spiral staircase which starts from the Ground Floor Restaurant up to the Fourth Floor Museum

A courtesan’s bedroom which is a part of the Museum.  The bed was created by Majorelle.

I left the building utterly blown-away!  I told myself how lucky am I to see such beauty, and I again thank Monsieur Pierre Cardin for sharing this amazing place to the world.

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The building on Esplanade Henri de France

France Televisions
I watch their shows everyday, my favorite being Telematin, their morning magazine show which talks about food, fashion,politics, art, books, animals, garden, the internet….. The show is so relaxed, everyone is like a member of one big family.  So when the opportunity came for me to see how their studio looks like, I did not dilly-dally, even if it means queueing up for hours.

France TV is just one of the many historic monuments, government buildings, palaces… which opened their doors to the public, for two days, as part of the Les Journees Europèennes du Patrimoine (European Patrimony Days) held every third weekend of September.

The sign on the queue says:  “On this spot, the waiting time is 2 hours.”  Sounds discouraging but I just had to do it.

And with my favorite news reporter, Nathanael, I made sure that I did not leave the studio without a souvenir photo of him.  Actually, due to my excitement, I forgot to take his autographed photo - he even asked my name so he can write “Maria” on it.  Luckily, I remembered and went back to claim it, braving the tight line of security in the maze of rooms and corridors…

I don’t know what this room is called, I was not listening to the Guide as I was busy photographing.  One thing I remember, the staff stationed here controls when a TV ad has to be inserted; they also control the cameramen, the sound, at the same time watching all the shows going on. 

She is Valerie, the weather reporter.  Here, she explained to us how she points to the weather map which is actually displayed on the right side of this photo (not seen) but on TV, the same map shows up on the green board behind her.

The robotic camera that moves by remote control.

This is another studio where we were shown how the lights change into different colours

I left the building happy and satisfied.  They even gave us a bag of goodies!  I love it!

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I went to watch the Fashion Show at Galeries Lafayette last Friday, the first they had after breaking off for the summer holiday. (I didn’t realize earlier that they also disappear in August, too bad, I was hoping to take my sister and her family to watch their Friday catwalk show when they visited Paris  last month.)

Anyway, it’s nice to be in familiar surroundings again.  The last time I was here was almost two years ago.  Starting at 3pm and lasting for half an hour, the Autumn/Winter collection of Cavalli, Sonia Rykell, John Galliano among others were presented.  I took just a couple of still photos as I was videoing the show most of the time.  For a change, I wanted to show you the catwalk movement of the models and I will post the video shortly, meanwhile, please be patient with these photos:

Wedding dress by Cymbaline Paris
I looked at their website and learned that Cymbaline won the wedding trends news award of the Best French designer of the year 2009 and 2010

These ladies in the audience came as a big group and occupied the entire left wing of the Salon de Opera. I reckon they are the successful applicants who will be participating in the Biggest Fashion Show on Earth.

After the show, I went out of the store and was astounded at this montage of photos covering the entire facade of Galeries Lafayette.

 They must be the photos of the successful applicants who come from all walks of life, a perfect formula where the theme of the event will be about Street Fashion.

On September 30, at 6pm, Galeries Lafayette (GL) is hoping to set a Guinness World Record by staging the biggest fashion show on earth.  Boulevard Haussman, home of its flagship store, will be transformed into a giant catwalk.  On the same day, at the GL branch in Berlin, at the same hour, another fashion show will be staged.  The other GL branches in France will hold similar shows on Sept 25 starting at exactly 4pm.  In total, all the 61 stores will be mobilized, about  10,000 people will be parading for the show in a giant catwalk comprising 2 kilometers. 

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The spiral staircase of Musee Maxim

This is just one of the many photos I will be posting which I took from the first day of the  Journees de Patrimoine (National Heritage Days) in Paris.  I am lost for words.. it’s a day I shall never forget: a visit to the TV Station, the residences of the British and Swiss Ambassadors….. Tomorrow I shall be queueing up as early as 6am outside the Palais de l’Elysee (Palace of the French President) and maybe, get inside the make up room of the Lido.  Huh! I am so crazy about this city, it never ceases to overwhelm me!

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She won’t probably take even a single bite for she had to keep her figure in slim top shape.  A cigarette of course drives the hunger pangs away.

Discussing where to take their two-hour lunch is a serious topic for the French.

Restaurant-hunting.

“Take your time, chef, I have a full newspaper to read…”

Driving to her lunch appointment …

Dining out is not affordable to many these days

Japanese restaurants are quickly spreading in the country because of the healthier and less fatty cuisine

Queueing up for the “cheaper-and-quicker-to-eat” sandwiches

Food of the gods….oysters squeezed with lemon!

A bistro in rue Saint Honore

Waiting for his master

A dog day lunch afternoon

Lucky doves! they don’t need to worry about food…

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The summer holiday season is over, the Parisians are back, metro stations at rush hours are packed and the streets of the capital are again buzzing with people - not just tourists but real people who live and work there.

 I love Paris when the locals are back!  All establishments are operating back to normal,   the more fashionable people have returned to the streets and the cafes become more vibrant!  In short, much more photo opportunities for yours truly.

 Here are some scenes of Paris going back to work:

This gentleman putting his mind on Zen, next to his suitcase -fresh from the train station - before starting his first day of work in La Defense, the city’s business district.

A boutique manager at work along Avenue George V

The Apprentices during a morning break

A sister tending a religious shop next to Saint Gervais Church in the 4th Arrondisement

An organic shop and cafe along Passage Mouliere in Les Marais

The new arrivals on their way to a boutique along Blvd Saint Germain

Photography students along Blvd Saint Germain

Back to work in boots and coat!  Autumn is coming.

After work, it’s Happy Hour time!

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Yesterday, I went to the  Le Marais district to search for the boulangerie (bakery) selling p*nis-shaped bread.  It is situated in the famous rue Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie, one of the oldest streets of Paris (13th century) and a top spot for the city’s gay life.

I arrived at the boulangerie just in time to buy their last stock and the handsome gay bakery attendant told me to come Saturdays when more bread of various shapes and sizes are baked and sold.

It was past 9 in the morning and I badly needed a cup of coffee and something to go with it so I bought one pain au chocolat to eat, keeping aside the p*nis bread to photograph. I found a nice café next to the colourful plumbing pipework of Centre Pompidou and took a seat comfortable enough to start my “photo shoot”.

Every now and then, I had to use the other bread to shield my photographic “subject” from passers-by to avoid staring eyes.

As I sat there with my camera, enjoying my coffee, I was beginning to realize that I was indeed in the center of Gay Paris: same-sex couples holding hands, well, I wanted to think that they are sisters but something in the way they clasp their hands tell me otherwise.

After a moment of people-watching, I got up and came across a framed banner showing another p*nis form, this time knitted out of wool. It’s a film entitled “Male Domination - Did you say Equality?”.

Turning into another street, I saw this large poster of a body-builder. I was not sure if the rubbish bin was intentionally put on that exact spot to cover something.
This is IEM Paris, a sex shop catering to gays.  It’s been operating for 27 years now and it’s the largest online shop in Europe.

Nearby is the Boyz Bazaar, the younger version of IEM.  It’s been operating for the last ten years.

Just on the corner is L’Etoile Manquante (The Missing Star), a bar-restaurant catering to homophiles but also frequented by heterophiles. It is famed for its charming decor and ambiance.

Les Mots a la Bouche (Words in his Mouth) is a gay bookstore selling books, novels, biographies, essays, photo albums, gay news, video, etc.

Their products…. at close range

I went home happy and satisfied. I had a full-morning immersion of what Gay Paris is like. H and I ate the p-bread: it’s crispy hard, with raisins, and we like it!
I had to take another shot before attacking it as I wanted to show you just how big it is. Note that the banana is the normal size you see in supermarkets, I mean, they are not the dwarf variety.

 

And here is the address of that boulangerie, a must-visit when you are in Paris…

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The last two weeks of August, I played the role of tourist guide to my sister, brother-in-law and 10-year old nephew for a 12-day European holiday.  Looking at the photographs I have taken (I was also their official photographer, mind you!), I am amazed that we actually covered a lot of places, experienced a lot of things in just less than two weeks!

Paris - Venice - Monaco - the mountainous Roya Valley - Cannes - winetasting in Provence, taking almost all modes of transport:  plane - boat - train - car - even a funicular!

This was their first time in Europe and coming from Dubai where the landscape is that of desert, sea, high rises and artificial resorts, what a big surprise for them to see so much natural beauty and staggering architecture Europe is famous for,  art and culture everywhere they went and the open society which is the opposite of conservative Middle East.

So how do I start?  I guess, if I share with you how we profited so much in those 12 days, then you might be able to get some idea how to enjoy  Europe in a whirlwind!

Day One - Arriving in Paris

Paris rooftops: the zinc roofing and the orange chimneys Paris is famous for. 
Taken from our apartment window.

For a party of four adults and one child (my husband and I joined them), we needed a comfortable spacious place to stay where we can cook, do the laundry and gather around for some chat and aperitivos in the evening.  A simple hotel room  would not be appropriate so I booked a two-bedroom apartment at the 16th Arrondisement, walking distance to the train and metro stations.

Our apartment building is just opposite the house where Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and his mother stayed in 1778, and where he died the same year.

Day Two - Paris sightseeing

We walked, took the sightseeing bus..all these to explore the City of Romance, Love, Fashion, Art….

The savory display at Stohrer, one of the oldest patisseries in Paris. Nicolas STOHRER was the personal patisserie of King Louis XV.
rue Montorgueil, 2nd Arrondissement

Patisserie Stohrer which opened in 1730 is classed as a historic monument because of its facade and interior decors.

 
The domes of Paris

 
The Eiffel Tower seen from Pont Bir-Hakeim

Hotel des Invalides
By order of King Louis XIV, this building was built in 1670 to house and treat the aged and injured soldiers. The tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte is on display here.

 
The Baroque-style Opera de Paris, designed by Charles Garnier for Emperor Napoleon III.  It now houses the National Academy of Music.

A boutique’s window display at the Champs-Elysees

 

A window display in Avenue Montaigne, one of the most expensive streets of Paris

A pooch, a slim lady and a cigarette - that’s a real Parisian cliche!

Painted stairs at the Abbesses station, the deepest of all metro stations in Paris.

Basilica du Sacre-Coeur at night

Treated to a nice Edith Piaf musical evening at Chez La Mere Catherine in Place du Tertre, Montmarte. This restaurant is one of the oldest bistrot in Paris, founded in 1793.

Getting one’s portrait done in Place du Tertre (50euros for half an hour sitting)

Day Three - Disneyland Paris

Disneyland Paris has never been part of my Parisian travel itineraries.  I thought it is only for the under 10’s.  I was only forced into it when my brother-in-law insisted that I must join them, if only to deal with everything written and spoken in French.  Thank goodness of this opportunity.  I actually like it and I intend to go back - on my own - so I could do a lot more photography.  There’s a great deal of photographic opportunities out there!

The 5-star Disneyland Hotel, Paris

Disneyland is like a fairytale land full of little girls in Snow White and Cinderella costumes

It’s the place where you earn the right to look like a child, wear funny things and it would still be okay.

Day Four - Opera de Paris, shopping

One must not leave Paris without seeing the ornate interiors of the Opera.
I originally planned a trip to Versailles for my guests but since they didn’t have the luxury of time, I decided to take them to the Opera Garnier or simply known as Opera de Paris. This historic monument of the neo-Baroque style is regarded as one of the architectural masterpieces of its time.

This part of their itinerary was a winner!

An ideal Parisian souvenir that can be found at the Opera Garnier bookstore

Stumbled upon this huge IPad store next to the Opera. This was a chance for my sister to buy this revolutionary tablet computer from Apple. She couldn’t buy it in Dubai as it was always out of stock.

 

This new Apple showroom has just opened recently and it’s interesting to note that the building used to be the Bank of Portugal.  We wanted to look at their IPhone/Ipad accessories and the bilingual French sales assistant took us downstairs to what used to be the vault of the Bank and has now been transformed into a boutique.

 

Notice the thickness of the iron door and the grills securing the vault.  I had to ask permission if I could take photos as I could see through  my peripheral vision some bulky security men hiding in corners.    Indeed, I got my wish!   Even if I was a gazillionaire, I probably would have no chance to take these photos if Bank of Portugal, Paris Opera branch did not shut down!

Shopping at the world-famous Galeries Lafayette

The Byzantine Dome is 33 meters high and constitutes 10 columns of stained glass reinforced by a richly carved metallic floral motif. It plays a great part in setting up a scene where the customer will feel so great stirring up a strong desire to buy.

We were not able to get inside the Notre Dame Cathedral that afternoon because a stupid promotional balloon of some telephone company was about to be released - of all places - at the grounds of a historic and religious monument! 

 
Paris by Night via the Bateaux Moche - the Pont de la Concorde (Concorde Bridge, 1790)). 
The stones used on this bridge came from the Bastille prison when the latter was demolished during the French Revolution.

Paris by Night - the Eiffel Tower

Day Five - Louvre Museum

The Glass Pyramid at the courtyard of the Louvre Museum.  This is the biggest, serving as entrance to the museum, and is surrounded by three smaller pyramids.  A Chinese architect, I.M. Pei, designed it by order of then President Francois Miterrand.  It caused wide controversy as many people felt that this futuristic structure is out of place infront of the country’s most historic museum.  Now, after 26 years since its construction, it has become one of Paris’ great icons.

The most-visited artwork in the Louvre, and the most famous painting in the world, is Leonardo da Vinci’s painting, Monalisa.

Another famous artwork - Venus de Milo

Inside the Louvre

The painted ceiling of the largest museum in the world

Day Six & Seven - Venice

We flew to Venice from Paris and I was looking forward to photographing the archipelago from the sky, alas, it was a cloudy morning so this is all I got.  Seen is the 4km causeway which links Venice to the mainland.

The city comprises of 117 islands formed by 177 canals …..

…and connected by 455 bridges

This is my first time to see flooding in St Mark’s Square.   It is caused by unusually high tide which happens only betwen September-April.  This scene happened on August 25, hence this winter-only occurrence came few days early.

A must-do when in Venice is to hang around St Mark’s Square at night and listen to the “battle of the orchestras” playing classical (and sometimes latina) music. 

The only way to see museums in the city is by foot or by water

Venice being one of the most visited cities in the planet is always crowded with tourists.  I dreaded going there in August, the peak of the tourist season, but it was not at all bad since the residents where also away for their holidays.

Day Eight to Ten - Roya Valley (France) and Ventimiglia (Italy)

Saorge, one of the most beautiful villages in France

The old town of Ventimiglia, Italy

The Piaggo truck, perfect for cruising the narrow streets of Italy

Day Eleven - Nice and Monaco

Nice

Fireworks along the Promenade des Anglais, to celebrate the end the summer season

The Principality of Monaco

Casino de Montecarlo, as reflected from a concave mirror in the garden fronting it.

The Belle Epoque style Casino de Monte Carlo was created by Charles Garnier, the same architect who designed the Opera Garnier in Paris.

We were able to get inside the gaming rooms and observed the graceful movement of the casino staff.  For as low as 5euros, we could have tried the black jack or the roulette but we need to go to a casino school first to learn the game.

Day Twelve - Cannes and Wine-tasting in Provence

Cannes is a favourite stop-off point by cruise ships from around the world

The sandy beach is the place to be seen

The art-deco style Hotel Martinez whose suite is dubbed as the most expensive suite in the world, houses film stars attending the annual Cannes Film Festival.

A visit to Chateau Sainte Roseline in the Var in Provence….

 

 ….for some wine-tasting experience!

A vineyard in Provence

So that’s it, folks!  A whirlwind holiday which made me lose weight in a whirlwind, too! 

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