A Pinay in Europe

There was no Apo Island snorkelling nor sightseeing today!

We got to Malatapay pier hoping to hire a boat but they were charging 1,500 pesos for a return trip.   We could  see the Apo just waving infront of us and to pay such amount is highway robbery!   Well, it’s not that we cannot afford it, it’s the principle!  We would not let them get away with charging so much money for a mere few minutes boat trip so we went away.  An Apo Island resort staff agreed with us, even moaned that it is the (municipal) government who push these boatmen to charge these ridiculous fees because they charge so much license fees to operate the boat tours.  

In order not to waste the day, we hailed a bus to Bais city hoping that we could see dolphins instead.   But holy cow!  The tourist office staff who operates the boat charges even higher.   For a big boat, you pay 3,500pesos, and for a smaller boat,  2,500pesos.   We looked at the small boat - a piece of what seems to be a floating box so old and rundown that we won’t even buy it for that amount!  They won’t even give in to our haggling - like, we arrived there at almost 3pm and boat trips last till 5pm, so even With 2 hours left, we still have to pay the full fare!   I mean, what are they trying to do?   But forget the foreigners, even local tourists wouldn’t even afford it so what happens is, we, Filipinos, wouldn’t even have the chance to see our own dolphins because of the high cost of seeing them!

Well, it’s not that we cannot afford it.  It’s the principle.  To let them get away with it is encouraging them to keep doing it, so we just did our favorite activity - that of walking. This is the best way to see the countryside because you get to see at close range the flowers, the people, their houses and what they do, in fact, the most colorful photographs we took were that of roadside encounters.

I got a lot of photos of barrio people (excellent for photojournalism!) who would even say ’salamat’ (thank you) for taking their pictures.  Believe me - this is a big no-no in Europe!

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Maria has taken some really nice shots and as she can speak Tagalog (although they speak mainly Visayas here) we enter into conversations easily with people and have taken some really good shots of children and people laughing and smiling outside their very poor little shacks. Some of them are so basic. Just a simple slatted bamboo floor to sleep on and they cook outside on an open fire. We were with one family today who were so pleased to have their beautiful children photographed, it was quite touching. I wish we had a polaroid so we could give them an instant picture to keep. They really have so little but always manage to smile and be very polite.The more I explore the Philippines, the more I realize the tremendous potential and natural resources it has. Unfortunately, the government is corrupt and hopeless and the country has been exploited for so long they cannot seem to get out of the poverty trap. We have really learnt a lot about bamboo and struck up a good friendship. I am convinced that there is a big market in Europe plus Bamboo is a fast growing and sustainable resource unlike cutting down hardwood forests in the Philippines. It is an incredible material. The more I research on it, the more I am fascinated with it and the potential it has.

…..A European in the Philippines

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We went for a day trip to Cebu today via a fastcraft (going) and pumpboat (coming).   The trip was only for 20 minutes and we went as far as Oslob, then Santander, both sleepy little towns with sleepy looking villagers…

Tomorrow we go to Apo Island  for another day trip of eco-touring and hopefully, more snorkelling.  Day after that, few days in Bohol then back to Manila to take a trip to the North.

So after some 11 days in the Visayas - Siquijor, Dumaguete and bit of Cebu, here are my comments:

Dumaguete is a rich town, most of the people have their own businesses, from a bilao selling trinkets to selling bamboo products to anything really. It’s also aclean, the locals obviously more disciplined, cleaning their own frontyard and growing flowering plants which make the town very nice and colorful.

That part of Cebu where we have been is noticeably poor.   We passed by the highway, the same road going to Cebu City, and the place is dirtier, poorly maintained, old houses close to collapsing, there is not much business going on except for some sari-sari stores where you cannot even buy a bottle of mineral water. 
Siquijor is a green island, lots of coconut trees which reminds H so much of the Caribbean but they do not grow enough vegetables that they import them from Cebu and Mindanao.   You can probably call it a bit prosperous because we don’t see poverty and beggars, only a long line of people by the roadside drawing water from a single tap, the only public tap for drinking water in the village.  Those who can afford to pay the cost of digging a well in their own backyard are luckier!

The common things we have observed about these places are:

-  For a country growing the most exotic fruits like mango, banana, etc, it is almost impossible to find fresh fruit shakes and juices in hotels, restaurants and even in an ordinary eatery.   All they can offer you is juice in a bottle or a can! or Coca-Cola! hey! do you know that Dumaguete City or probably the entire Negros Oriental is Coca Cola country?  The logo and the colour red is painted everywhere, in all eateries, in all stores and even in houses that don’t have anything to do with selling drinks or snacks!   Call it marketing strategy!

- That we cannot find a single eatery, except in our favorite cafeteria in Dumaguete - serving native coffee!   Even hotels and restaurants don’t serve brewed coffee!  Hello!!  I thought we grow coffee beans in Batangas??  All they can offer us is Nescafe in sachet, Nescafe in sachet and only Nescafe in sachet! Wow!  How lucky could Nescafe get?  Monopolising the coffee culture of the Filipinos! (these Nescafe in sachet is very difficult to open anyway that servers had to include a pair of scissors in their serving tray! 

-  That we have so much natural resources in this country, bamboo, nipa, rattan, copra for example, which we can develop into a source of livelihood for the people.   Not to mention human resources where we have a tremendous supply!

I also see the natural beauty of our islands, this alone could bring tourism in our country which would give a source of income for every Filipino. Our coral reefs are the talk of the whole diving world, we should use it to our advantage!

And if we could just put our acts together - the government, the people - we don’t have to send our skilled workers to work as Domestic Helpers or contract workers to other countries.

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The bell tower of Siquijor

We are now on the beautiful island of Siquijor that has just clearly blown us away. It’s a tropical paradise, very laid back and peaceful with smiling friendly natives.

We are staying in the Kiwi Dive resort in a small nipa hut with no airconditioning but its fine. It’s cheap.

The dive spot starts just on the left where the boats are moored.

The girls who run the resort are lovely and so helpful.  We have been diving (snorkel, fins and mask) on the reef this morning. We were there for hours. Its just beautiful. The colours of the reef fish and corals are really a sight to behold. We even saw a sea snake. There are dolphins but we have not seen any yet. Bright blue star fish and evidence of sea turtles. You can see the holes where they lay their eggs in the pure white sand.Here, it is so facinating and totally stress free.

You just take your time, explore everything, go beach combing and see wonderful shells and corals just lying on the beach. If you get bored with that you go for a walk and explore the local flora which is mind blowing - bird of paradise flowers just hanging. The air is good and we both feel good.We are taking lots of exercise and can’t keep away from the water.

We finally found the only one internet cafe on the island, at Larena and just a while ago, a family from the mountains was trying to sell us a whole chicken, live, for only 100pesos! If only there’s more room in our suitcase.

 …………..A European in the Philippines

The bakery angels

Thanks for posing, spot!

This garden grass is planted on the roadside then sold per piece

Trying the “tuba” (coconut liquor)

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We are now on the Island of Negros in the Visayas, Philippines.

It is unbelievably beautiful.
We are having a fabulous time, meeting many interesting people, swimming and exploring the area. We are also looking at some business opportunities which so far look quite promising.
We have not been dolphin-watching but we hope to do so. Unfortunately the main season for this is in the Philippine summer which is March to May. We will however chance our luck and hire a boat. I also plan to go diving when we go to Siquijor and Apo Island where there is a Marine reserve.

The tropical flowers here are really beautiful. The place is full of exotic hibiscus, bourgainvilleas and orchids just to name a few. It is of course hot and quite humid. I prefer to be near the sea where you get a nice breeze.

It is very cheap to live here and the food is good , particularly the seafood and fish.
I think that I could easily live here for 6 months of the year and the other 6 months in France. I have to confess that I am not missing Leicester at all and I have adapted very quickly to the simple way of life here on the islands. We are enjoying the photographic opportunities and also writing about our experiences. I have time to think here and follow my interests completely stress free which is really great. We are both feeling fit and happy and pleased to have some time together in such a beautiful place.

Fish is good but difficult to find a restaurant where they understand how to cook it, We dream of having our own place here where we can buy food in the local markets and then cook it ourselves.

We are planing to go to the small island of Siquijor either tomorrow or the day after. We are going to book one night in a resort which is right on the white sandy beach with all facilities. Its not really expensive considering what you get. Its about 18 gbp per night but the hotel where we are staying in Dumaguete is only 10 gbp per night and very comfortable.

We hope to also hire a boat and go to Apo Island where there is the marine reserve that we can dive on. We have to go on an outrigger boat called a banca.

We have been having fun travelling on the local shared transport - the jeepneys and motor tricycles. You would not believe the number of people that they pack into them, We took a ride back to town and there must have been 60 people in the jeep, on the roof and hanging onto the back. I counted 10 just hanging on the back onto rails. Maria managed to twist her ankle the other day which slowed us down a bit but she seems to have recovered quickly with just a slight limp. We are walking a lot and trying to get as much exercise as possible. Life is laidback, easy, cheap and relatively stressless if you have a bit of money. You can live very well on 250 gbp per month.

The change has really done us good. I was so fed up with Leicester and that high stress job. I now feel liberated and have quickly forgotten it all, Its amazing how quickly you can adapt to the way of life here. There is never a dull moment. Always a new story to hear, a new place to see, sights and smells of the market which are so colourful. People seem happy and are always laughing and smiling. They don’t have much but I have not seen any bad poverty here, however Manila is another story. Its just terrible some of the slums we have seen. Really pitiful. The most gross thing that i have seen here on Negros is an enormous fat American, I mean enormous with a tiny little Filipina girl. I guess she just wants a ticket out of here albeit with a total slob.

I am feeling pretty good and relaxed. It is so nice to go out in the evening in open sandals, a tee shirt and shorts and not be cold.

We have been looking at Bamboo and have been getting on well with a dutch philanthropist married to a Filipina who has been in the philippines for 43 years. He looks good on it and must be at least 75. His name is Franz and is the chairman of the Bamboo institute in Dumaguete. They make the most superb nipa huts, houses, gazeebos and furniture all in native style.

It will take me too long to tell you about Franz but such an interesting guy with a big heart , a passion for his work and the well being of the Filipino people. He is very active with his wife to get better conditions and deals for the local farmers and really ecologically minded looking at sustainable development on this beautiful island. He also has learnt the local language Visayan which is different to Tagalog. We plan to make a DVD documentary of his story.

……………..A European in the Philippines

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Wednesday is the day when the sleepy town of Malatapay in Zamboangita, half an hour ride from Dumaguete comes alive when vendors from neighbouring barangays come to sell their animals.  There is even an auction for the cows and pigs!  The produce and people from nearby towns come to do their marketing.   For the locals, the scene is very ordinary albeit chaotic, but for foreigners (where we saw a lot today) it is very exciting and a great opportunity for taking photographs!

What I find very fascinating is that the locals are all happy and only too wlling to be photographed!  They even smile and pose for the camera!  If you are in England, they will castigate you for it, and if the photographic subject is children, before you know it, a policeman will be arresting you and take you to jail!  Why? Because they will suspect you for a paedophile!

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I sprained my ankle today! my fault because i got carried away photographing the mind-blowing view of the sea, the mountains, the islands of cebu and siquijor in the far distance, and the beautiful gardens of “Our Lady’s Garden”. I didn’t see the steps going down and i twisted my ankle! thank goodness, my beautiful camera was safe and sound with that fall!

A must-visit when in Dumaguete is the “Our Lady’s Garden in Sibulan. A big statue of the Virgin Mary will welcome you up on the hill, majestically standing there amongst the beautifully landscaped gardens. And when you get in, you will be blown away by yet more beautiful flowering plants and traditional bamboo houses each representing Luzon, visayas and mindanao. 

Another place to add on your list is the Sidlakang Negros, a village showcasing different bamboo houses also representing the different towns of Negros Oriental.

Show huts in Sidlakang Negros
The reason why we found these two places is because we were lucky enough to meet the Bamboo King of Negros, Franz, a Dutch who had lived in the Phils for 42 years. Franz has designed all these bamboo houses (and furniture) and even supplied the bamboo cottages to most of the beach resorts in negros oriental, each one painstakingly built by the mountain men he trained in order to give them a means of livelihood. his bamboo enterprise is a non-profit organisation, supported by the government of Negros and his missionary group. So while Franz is doing his noble deed of helping this mountain people earn their living, his wife Inday is also helping women who are victims of rape, domestic crimes and others.

On friday, they are inviting us to a conference to be attended by Negros farmers, bishops and pastors so that the former can voice their plight about the government’s plan to convert their agricultural land into bio-fuel production plants. whereas the existing land is where the farmers get their main source of livelihood (where they grow rice and corn), they are now in panic about their future. there is also the resulting chemical waste of these plants getting into the sea, particularly the Tanon Strait which will threaten the habitat of dolphins and whales, not to mention the marine life which is the main source of food of the people.

It’s just a shame that the conference will be in Visayan dialect so hubby won’t be able to appreciate it.

The Buglas Bamboo workshop

One of the project resorts of Franz

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Lots of colours!
After the drabness of middle-England, I am struck by the abundance of colours and the most wonderful flowers pulsating with beauty!  The people are friendly and life is laidback.  The market is generally busy and so much fun to observe the hustle and bustle of life going by.  I am amazed that you can buy just about everything you would need from the obscure piece of hardware to the many types of rice to cacao beans being sold - of all places - in a dressmaking shop! The perfection of the flowers - hibiscus (gumamela), bougainvilleas, orchids and the magnificent towering coconut palm and mango trees.  The dark blue sea and the simple beaches with the backdrop of fishing boats and children playing add magic to the place. Swimming in the warm waters of the Philippine sea is a pure delight.

 

Looking around, I’m also impressed by the handicrafts and the intricate work Filipinos produce on this island - their artistic talent and originality are clear to see.

So far, we love the provincial feel of Dumaguete.  There seems to be a natural order of everything, an innate discipline among the people in general.

We were supposed to stay for just two days but something is pulling us to hang around for a bit more.  I guess the laidback attitude of the people is slowly infecting us! In Dumaguete, the clock seems to move slowly.  And staying longer in a place has its bonus.  It gives us a chance to know the people more, to absorb just about everything.  It’s a continuous learning experience.  

 By H..A European in the Philippines
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So far, we love the provincial feel of Dumaguete. there seems to be a natural order of everything, an innate discipline among the people in general. Unlike ordinary tourists, we are what you call “travellers” who really scour the area and try to explore, or in my case, re-discover the true Filipino heritage which is very evident in the rural areas around Dumaguete.

We were supposed to stay for just two days but something is pulling us to hang around for a bit more. I guess the laidback attitude of the people is slowly infecting us! In Dumaguete, the clock seems to move slowly. And staying longer in a place has its bonus - it gives us a chance to know the people more, to absorb just about everything. it’s a continuous learning experience.

Good grief!  I could easily write a book about life here!  I’m continuously fascinated even the little stories of ordinary people: the hairdresser, the market vendor, the cafe owner.

Cafe.  We have a favorite hangout in the market where we have our breakfast.   They make the most beautiful brewed coffee - native coffee grown in Cagayan at 15pesos a mug.  I am tempted to accept the offer of the cafe owner to sell us the ground coffee because it’s a long process she says.  You buy the beans raw, roast them, then grind them before brewing.  And you don’t even need to sweeten it because it has its natural sweetness!

Along with the coffee is the pelit or suman.  It’s so good that H and I can eat 4 pieces each in one seating. Then we noticed some of the customers eating a small plate of sticky rice and pouring chocolate syrup over it. “It’s called puto-maya” the owner says. “it’s similar to the champorado but dryer.  We tried it but probably will get used to it in no time!

Dancing in the plaza

Last night, a Saturday night, we noticed some kind of ballroom dancing in the plaza, complete with Latin music, tables and chairs.  I asked a peanut vendor if this dancing is only for tonight.  He said no.  It’s happening every Saturday night.  It’s open to the public and it’s free!  You don’t have to order for any drinks, just come with a partner, sit on the chairs provided and enjoy the evening!

(This every-saturday-dance lasts till 1am)

The “buwayas”

(In Filipino parlance, “buwayas” or crocodiles are those people who provides a service but overprices you for it, for the simple reason that you are a foreigner)

The only thing that a foreigner has to be careful of is the “money-sucking tricycle/jeepney driver”.  He can easily quote a figure for up to ten times the normal fare.

For a 20 minute tour around the city market, a tricycle driver who told us, “It’s up to you, ma’am!”, ended up milking us with 250pesos, whereas the regular fare is only 7pesos per head.  Today, on our way to Valencia, a mere 15 minute drive from Dumaguete, the jeepney driver quoted 50pesos for the two of us.   We told him earlier that he can pick up other passengers but he just drove on with only H and myself as his customers.   Arriving in Valencia, he asked for 50pesos.   Fed up with all these “crocodiles”  I started giving him a piece of my mind!

“How come all of you, tricycle drivers and jeepney drivers, as soon as you see white people, you start overcharging?  Why do you do that? blah-blah-blah!!”   Then, meekly, he finally asked for a mere 20pesos - ten pesos per head.  H, digging in for a 20peso bill wondered, “How did you do that?”

“I’ll explain later!” I said with a smile…

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Greetings from Dumaguete!

We arrived here yesterday via Air Philippines, a 1 hour 20 minutes flight which had us marvelling the whole time looking down at the beautiful foresty lands, the very green islands and the pristine turquoise blue waters surrounding them.  From my plane seat, I saw cumulus clouds below, amazingly high and pure white, and the thinner and grayish stratus clouds that were moving so fast.

Dumaguete airport is charming, a provincial landing point of small planes, the smallest we saw was of the size of two cars!

Our first impression of the city was about its humidity and the real tropical feel.  Because it is so green and flowering plants everywhere, you would not think it’s part of the Philippines!

Our hotel fronts the sea, by Rizal Blvd, so named because that’s where our national hero used to while away his hours. I am particularly impressed by hundred year old acacia trees which line the boulevard, so tall and majestic and their branches spreading up to 100 meters in width.

Exotic markets,  tricycles, international students most of them from Korea, but what caught our attention was the sight of young slim innocent looking girls going out with burly foreigners old enough to be their grandfathers.

“How do they do it?” H wonders.
You see a couple and you will feel sorry about the girl who could easily be your younger sister.  Well, it doesn’t matter if the age gap would not be so great but sadly, it is shockingly great!

………………A European in the Philippines

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We had dinner of carbonara at a pizza parlour tonight. No sooner than we sat at the terrace when a girl selling rugs was hanging around us, almost begging us to buy her rug. We told her “No, thank you!” and she left. 

Then she came back, showed us the rugs again as if we were a set of newly-arrived customers. we said no with a smile.

She came back for about five times that I was already tempted to buy her rug to make her happy. But what are we going to do with it?  So I said with a smile, “We are just staying in a hotel and we really don’t need a rug.”  And she left, never to bother us again.

Then a boy in his early 20’s looking like a cigarette vendor came.  He was hiding his wares from everyone else but making sure that we saw what he was selling.  I could not decipher the name but they look like boxes of medicine.  Sort of “calais..” is written on each box.

H instantly recognized them.
H: ”They’re semi-viagra!”
M: ”How do you know?”
H: “Because they are known everywhere!”

Then I told the young man: ”Excuse me, we are married!”
H: “What difference does it make if we are married?”

“NO JOINERS ALLOWED”

This notice is displayed on the front desk of the hotel.  I asked the lady in the counter what “joiner’ means.  She was quiet for a moment then whispered, “prostitute”

H:  “I’ve never heard of that word before..!”

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I have an announcement to make.  H has decided to scrap the leicester assignment, get out of the corporate world and live the life we always wanted doing - travelling, enjoying what this short life has to offer and finally running a business where we can get self-fulfillment instead of working for giant corporations which endlessly rip people off for services that are not really necessary, but rather help destroy the very fiber of human existence (example: mobile network companies incorporating online gaming into their service).

Indeed there are still so much things to do before we reach our goal but first, all we want to do now is to enjoy this Philippine holiday!

A new year.. a new beginning.. a new chapter

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A European in Pinas

In the heat of Manila Everything is OK.   I arrived safely and was met at the airport.  The flight was very long and seems to go on for ever but the Emirates hostesses look after you very well.  Excellent service and food.I have been spending some time with Tatang (Mariadam’s father).  He is remarkable. I was honoured when he got up at 1am in the morning to eat at the table with me. He has been talking about his boxing days in Hawaii. You can see the concentration when he plays his instruments. I am putting new violin strings on for him. He is very thin now but very disciplined with his exercises. I have been given all the delicious food I could want, my favourite grilled fish-  bangus in banana leaves - and fried Tilapia - and dessert of fresh mango.

The little girl Danielle (niece) is absolutely adorable. She is only three and very curious. She has been sitting on my lap and of course I can’t resist making a big fuss of her. I am delighted to be here and feel very much part of the big family here.  M (Mariadams) and I are going out with (sister-in-law) in the van this afternoon to do a bit of sight seeing around Manila. She has taken some holiday from work and has an air conditioned van - essential here. It is so nice to feel warm after being so horribly cold in Leicester. I am enjoying seeing everyone very much. I am being thoroughly spoilt which is really nice.I expect that we will leave for Cebu in about three days.

In the morning, we went for a brief walk around the block of the subdivision where we live, and in the afternoon, a leisurely walk in Trinoma, an upmarket mall.  “People stare right through you. I think mixed couples are less accepted here. In Europe, no one looks at you. It’s normal because it’s a multi-racial society. In France, when they see a brown skin like yours, they like it.  They even complement you for it. And in Greece, nobody asks where you come from.  In Trinoma, people stared in a very unusual way like I am from planet mars.”

On the 5-year old boy in tatters who came knocking at the gate asking for plastics and cans for selling to the junkyard.  I called H so he can see in his own eyes this unlucky lot of society. “ His shirt and shorts all torn, his bare feet dirty.  You realize there are thousands more like him. It’s the children most of all that I feel sorry of.  They were born to that situation. That’s all they know. Danielle could have been born like that. She’s lucky……. 

We are flying to Dumaguete tomorrow and starting our little adventure on the islands of Negros, Bohol and Cebu. It’s been nice spending a few days with the family but I can’t hack the pollution from the jeepneys and tricycles. Pure blue smoke choking you. We took a tricycle this morning - they are smaller than the ones in Thailand but we managed to get Danielle, Maria and I plus driver and his little boy all hanging on for dear life while trying to cover our noses with handkerchiefs to avoid breathing in the filth. The roads are appalling so you keep bumping your head on the sidecar ceiling.We have had a good time but are now looking forward to breathing some clean air and being in the provinces by the sea far away from the madness of Metro Manila.

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